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The Klipspringer (Oreotragus Oreotragus) is a small antelope found in eastern and southern Africa. The vernacular name “Klipspringer” is a compound of the Afrikaans words Klip (“Rock”) and Springer (“Leaper”). Another name for this antelope is “Klipbok”.
The Klipspringer is a small, sturdy antelope reaching 43–60 cm (17–23+1⁄2 in) at the shoulder. The head-and-body length is typically between 75 and 115 cm (30 and 45 in). It weighs from 8 to 18 kg (18 to 40 lb). The Klipspringer is sexually dimorphic; females are slightly larger and heavier than the males. The tail measures 6.5–10.5 cm (2+1⁄2–4+1⁄4 in). Prominent facial features include the brown forehead, short ears marked with black, prominent preorbital glands near the eyes, and white lips and chin. The horns, short and spiky, present only on males, typically measure 7.5–9 cm (3–3+1⁄2 in); the maximum recorded horn length is 15.9 cm (6+1⁄4 in).
The coat of the Klipspringer, yellowish grey to reddish brown, acts as an efficient camouflage in its rocky habitat; the underbelly is white. Unlike most other antelope, the Klipspringer has a thick and coarse coat with hollow, brittle hairs. The incisors might even get damaged by the hairs while grooming. However, the coat is a significant adaptation that saves the animal during steep falls and provides effective insulation in the extreme climates characteristic of its mountain habitat. A study showed that ticks occur in larger numbers on the underbelly, where the hair is less coarse. The hair often turns erect, especially if the animal is ill or if its temperature increases. Another feature unique to the Klipspringer is its gait; it walks on the tips of its cylindrical, blunt hooves. This enhances the grip on the ground, enabling the animal to deftly climb and jump over rocky surfaces.
Typically nocturnal (active mainly at night), the Klipspringer rests during the midday and at late night; the animal tends to be more active on moonlit nights. It basks in the morning sunlight to warm itself. A gregarious animal, the Klipspringer, like the Dik-Diks and the Oribi, exhibits monogamy to a much greater extent than other antelope; individuals of opposite sexes form pairs that might last until one dies. The mates tend to stay as close as within 5 m (16 ft) of each other at most times; for instance, they take turns at keeping a lookout for predators while the other feeds, and face any danger together. The Klipspringer will hop a few metres away from the danger. Other social groups include small family herds of eight or more members or solitary individuals. Klipspringer greet one another by rubbing cheeks at social meetings.
Males form territories, 7.5–49 hectares (18+1⁄2–121 acres) large (the size depends on rainfall patterns), in which they stay with their partners and offspring. Males are generally more vigilant than females. Klipspringer form large dung heaps, nearly 1 m (3 ft 3 in) across and 10 cm (4 in) deep, at the borders of territories; another form of marking is the secretion of a thick, black substance, measuring 5 mm (1⁄4 in) across, from the preorbital glands onto vegetation and rocks in the territories. The main vocalisation is a shrill whistle, given out by the Klipspringer pair in a duet, as a means of communication or anti-predator response. Predators include the Baboon, Black-Backed Jackal, Caracal, Crowned Eagle, Leopard, Martial Eagle, Serval, Spotted Hyena and Verreaux Eagle.
Primarily a browser, the Klipspringer prefers young plants, fruits and flowers. Grasses, eaten mainly in the wet season, form a minor portion of the diet. Some plants, such as Vellozia, may be preferred seasonally. Klipspringer depend mainly on succulent plants, and not on water bodies, to meet their water requirement. They can stand on their hindlegs to reach tall branches up to 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in) above the ground.
The Klipspringer is a seasonal breeder; the time when mating occurs varies geographically. Females become sexually mature by the time they are a year old; males take slightly longer to mature. Mating behaviour has not been extensively observed. Gestation lasts around six months, following which a single calf, weighing slightly more than 1 kg (2 lb), is born; births peak from spring to early summer. Births take place in dense vegetation. The newborn is carefully hidden for up to three months to protect it from the view of predators; the mother suckles it three to four times a day, the visits gradually lengthen as the offspring grows. Males are protective of their offspring, keeping a watch for other males and predators. The calf is weaned at four to five months and leaves its mother when it turns a year old. The Klipspringer lives for around 15 years.
The Klipspringer inhabits places characterised by rocky terrain and sparse vegetation. It migrates to lowlands at times of food scarcity. The Klipspringer occurs at altitudes as high as 4,500 m (15,000 ft) on Mount Kilimanjaro. The antelope occurs in significant numbers across eastern and southern Africa; its range extends from northeastern Sudan, Eritrea, northern Somalia and Ethiopia in the east to South Africa in the south and along coastal Angola and Namibia.
Planning carefully is the key to a good Klipspringer taxidermy job. When tanning and oiling the hides, the best chemicals and methods in the world are used to make sure they will last for generations. At Lifeform Taxidermy, we carefully choose our forms to make sure they fit well, and we’ll even custom make the forms according to any instruction, you may have in mind, at no extra cost. Full-mount trophies come with standard natural habitat bases that are made just for them. We use only the best materials and our 40 years of experience in the field to give your trophies new meaning. The finished trophies look life-like. When repair is needed, every effort is made to repair cuts and scrapes while keeping bullet damage to a minimum. Skin preparation and storage tips for a flawless Klipspringer trophy.
Take care of your trophy before you bring it to the taxidermist – field preparation is the most important start. As soon as you take the hit on your trophy, it starts to rot, and the heat of Africa speeds up the decaying process. The hunter must not drag the body of the animal from the site where it was shot to the waiting hunting truck. The trophy should be protected from the hot metal bed of the hunting truck with a thick layer of cut grass or leaves.
So that nothing goes wrong, the skinning needs to start right away. Remove all of the meat, fat, dirt, and blood from the skin. Clean the skin well. After that, allow the skin to drip dry for a short time, it should then be salted. It is recommended to soak the skin in a salt solution for at least five hours and ideally overnight. Use about 20 kg of salt per 100 litres of water. After taking the skin out of the solution, salt it while it is still flat and flesh side up on a clean surface. To get the full effect of the salt, it needs to be absorbed into the skin all over, into all the crevice’s, especially around the facial features. Put the skin in the shade with a layer of salt on it. After 24 hours, dry the cape. Fold with the hair and ears in when it’s dry. To stop insect damage, pesticides must be sprayed on the skin and in the storage area.
If you’re hunting Klipspringer in Africa, keep an eye out for signs that the animal is scared and on the move. It, like many other antelope species, frequently pauses to turn around and take a look at its pursuers. There will be a chance for a shot if the hunter is ready. It is best to sneak up on it slowly.
This antelope is a challenging hunt. Rough terrain and their keen eyesight make it tough to sneak up on them. Many hours of an African Klipspringer hunt will be spent peering through binoculars at rocky outcroppings and cliff sides for signs of these little antelope.
While any appropriate 22 centre fire with a 45 to 55 grain bullet can do, hunting Klipspringer is generally accomplished with bigger calibres. These higher calibres with soft, rapidly expanding bullets will undoubtedly damage the cape. The .223 with military-issue FMJ rounds would be a good alternative. As regards shot placement, if utilising expanding bullets, aim well behind the shoulder. It is best to keep your sights forward if you’re going for solids. If you need to shoot at an angle, try to avoid hitting the shoulder or the front of the leg. If you must shoot from the front, avoid the spine and aim for the brisket in the lower chest, between the legs.
How you choose an Klipspringer taxidermy mount depends on things like your budget, wall space, and personal taste. When it comes to the creation of a full mount, we find that considerable discussion with the customer yields the best results. This is due to the fact that each form is given a distinct shape and arrangement.
Life-Form Taxidermy will make an exact copy of the skin as soon as they get all of your mounting instructions. All of the skins are tanned and oiled with high-quality products and methods to make sure they are preserved for years. Each skin is put on a manikin to make sure that it fits well. After the eyes and ears are expertly placed, the skin is sewn by a professional. Before making any last changes, the taxidermist waits until the animal is dry. They put the trophies in crates, and the shipping company hired by the client brings them to the client.
Every year, dust the mounts with a soft brush or compressed air to fluff up the hair. Trophies should be protected from common pests by spraying a light mist of normal aerosol surface pesticide around them. Think about preserving your trophy with Mount Medix Africa. This is a product that Life-Form Taxidermy offers.
Keep trophies in a cool, dry place. Daylight makes the mounts fade over time, so artificial light is better. If there’s too much humidity, open the windows or turn on a fan. Due to salt and tan residue, hair can make moisture beads when the humidity is high. Using a tissue that soaks up water will also soak up the salts.
The pricing of any trophy is subject to the costing stipulated per taxidermy order, quantity of trophies and preferred mounting options, along with additional requirements.
Should you wish to receive a quotation prior to the hunt, the taxidermist can generate such for you. Please contact [email protected]
Taxidermy is an art form that involves a complicated step-by-step process to make sure that each trophy looks just right and is of a high enough quality that it will last your whole life.
The time it takes a taxidermist to mount an animal might range from days to weeks, and possibly several months, depending on the quantity of trophies per taxidermy order, the display preferences, and volumes of client trophies to be produced, simultaneously, per production schedule.
This depends largely on the “what, how, when” factors. A taxidermy order also only becomes available for production scheduling upon receipt of the required deposit and trophy mounting instructions.
