Warthog Fullmount – HH122
The Warthog (Phacochoerus africanus), or Common Warthog, is a species of pig. The common name comes from the four large, wart-like bulges found on the head of the warthog.
They are a dark-brown or black in colour. With their tusks and large heads, Warthogs look vicious but in actual fact they aren’t and avoid fights with other animals like Wild dogs, Lions and Cheetahs. When cornered, however, they will attack with their lower tusks. They are active during the day and then sleep in abandoned burrows at night.
Warthog Fullmount – HH122
Warthog 3D Mount(Customized) – GG278, Warthog Backmount – FF 496, Warthog Bronze Full Skull – GG238, Warthog Full Skull Bleach & Clean – FF 072, Warthog Full Skull on Custom Shield – GG131, Warthog Full Skull Shieldmount – FF 053, Warthog Fullmount – HH122, Warthog Fullmount – II023, Warthog Halfmount – FF 497, Warthog Shouldermount Right – DD353, Warthog Shouldermount Slight Left – DD033, Warthog Shouldermount Slt Right – GG350, Warthog Shouldermount STR – GG349, Warthog Shouldermount Straight – DD345, Warthog Skull Carving – HH138
• Adult Warthogs can weigh up to 150kgs.
• Their tusks are made from ivory and they are hunted specifically for this.
• The warthog population in southern Africa is estimated to be about 250,000.
•Their tusks can inflict severe wounds
Thorough preparation is the key factor to ensuring a high-quality final product. All hides are tanned and oiled using the world’s very best available chemicals and processes to ensure permanence and longevity.Forms are selected to ensure the best fit and posture will be altered to suit you, the client’s preference without additional cost. Natural habitat bases are custom-made for full mount trophies without additional cost.Only the finest materials and 40 years of professional experience are used in defining your trophies in a whole new way. The final trophies are almost Life-Formed. When the restoration is required, every effort is made to repair cuts and abrasions, and to minimise bullet damage. Natural scarring is kept unless otherwise requested.
Their habitat are the savannahs, grasslands and woodland in various parts of Africa. Warthogs feed on berries, eggs, grasses, tree bark and sometimes even dead animals. During the dry seasons they consume bulbs and roots. While eating, they bend down on their front knees and ruffle in the grass for their food.
The Warthog (Phacochoerus africanus) is a much-loved animal that has been featured in popular media for decades, including films like The Lion King. The bumps on the side of their head resemble warts, hence the name. Their tusks are always sharp because they rub against each other while feeding, and this is true for both sexes.
The largest tusked warthogs like sandy soils and when digging for roots to eat, they use their tusks as tools, which can cause them to become dull or even broken in rocky soils.
Warthogs are diurnal creatures that spend their days foraging for food. They frequently travel in large groups consisting of several related individuals. As they root about in the soil for food, warthogs have the odd habit of kneeling on their front legs. At night, they retreat into burrows, entering the tunnels with their hind ends first. Solitary boars, bachelor groups, and matriarchal groups are the three most common social configurations.
The warthog is an extremely prized trophy among hunters. They occur widely throughout Southern Africa. When hunting warthog in South Africa, scout the open regions near water. They will typically seek shade among the trees and bushes.
Be decisive with your shot placement and pick a caliber with good impact power. When injured, warthogs have a tendency to dive headfirst into the nearest hole, making extraction quite challenging.
At all costs, avoid shooting the head or neck. The resulting cavities are tricky to conceal. Use full metal jacketed bullets (solids) against small animals.
Taxidermy entails the mounting or stuffing of preserved animal bodies for the sake of research or public exhibition. While it is most commonly employed to preserve mammals, birds, and fish, it can also be applied to other species like as reptiles, insects, and spiders.
Traditional skin mounts, reproductions, and freeze-drying are the three primary taxidermy techniques. The skin of the animal is stretched over a mannikin in traditional skin mounts.
The Greek words taxis and derma form the root of the English word taxidermy. Their respective meanings are “arrangement” and “skin.”
Fiberglass and foam are used to produce remarkably realistic animal trophies. Detailed knowledge of the anatomy of the warthog, the animal’s natural behavior, and its skin color are just few of the factors that taxidermists consider when attempting to capture an animal’s likeness in a display.
Do not drag the animal across the ground at any point, not even when getting it into the loading vehicle. It’s important to skin the animal right away to stop any bacterial growth that could lead to hairslip.
It’s crucial that you get rid of every last bit of flesh before you peel the skin off. Wash the skin properly to eliminate all blood immediately after skinning. When the skin has been drip-dried for a few minutes, it is ready to be salted.
Put the skin in the shade with a two centimetre layer of salt and the meat-side-up. After waiting for 24 hours, shake off the excess salt and hang the cape to dry. When it’s dry enough to fold but still pliable, pack it up with the hair and ears facing inward. The skin and storage room must be treated with pesticide to prevent insects from harming it when it is stored for an extended period of time.
On receipt of your specific mounting instructions, Life-Form Taxidermy will create a mould to fit the skin. Only the best chemicals and techniques are used in the tanning and oiling of the skins, extending their useful life for years to come.
Through the tanning process, protein-rich skin is transformed into a non-protein one. The important aspects in achieving a good tan include preventing the growth of bacteria, shaving correctly, and limiting moisture exposure.
We fit all skins to the manikins to ensure a proper fit. After the ears have been correctly positioned, and the hiqh quality imported glass eyes are fitted, the professional stitching of the skin takes place. The taxidermist waits for the animal to dry before retouching, grooming, and touching up the animal.
When displaying your mounts, make sure to do it in a cool, dry place. It’s best to avoid hanging your mounts directly in front of a bright window, where they will be subjected to prolonged exposure to sunlight and will fade. Taxidermy pieces should be kept away from heat sources such as fireplaces and heaters. Please also avoid damp environments as Mildew and mould flourish in those places
Regular, light dusting will keep your mounts looking their best. To eliminate any remaining dust, use a feather duster and then wipe down the area in the direction of the hair with a damp towel. It’s best to stay away from furniture polish and other treatments that have a bad reputation but are often believed to be effective in cleaning hair and fur. Some of these items may actually draw extra dirt and dampness. Other options include using compressed air or a vacuum with a soft brush upholstery attachment. Be careful not to pull or tug at the hair, and work with it in the direction it naturally falls. We suggest using Mount Medix Africa to help preserve your trophy. This product is used and supplied by Life-Form Taxidermy
The ultimate price will be determined by the state of each trophy, the extent of any needed repairs, and the trophy(ies) requested. Please don’t wait to get in touch so that we can provide you with a quote.
Life-Form Taxidermy estimates that a warthog mount will take between eight and twelve months to complete.